越来越贵的奢侈品，与被盯上的中国市场

 数年前，名不见经传的StreetWear（街头服饰）品牌，和LV、香奈儿、迪奥、爱马仕以及Gucci等国际顶尖时尚品牌之间似乎横亘着一条不可逾越的鸿沟，各自守着时尚世界的两极：在国际时装周的秀场上，尽是华贵讲究的高级礼服；即使在最具时尚气息的都市街头，潮流青年们也不过身穿着廉价的印花T恤，脚蹬最新款的Nike球鞋。<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>那个时候，很少有人相信，只需短短数年，StreetWear和国际大牌之间的界限就会变得模糊不清。

<h3 style="margin: 40px 0px 14px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 10px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 23px; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; position: relative; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify;”>被盯上的“肥肉”

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>为了取悦年轻的消费者，尤其是中国的年轻金主，各大奢侈品牌争先恐后地向彰显自我的StreetWear靠拢，推出属于自己的潮品，而此举的一个直接后果是：买家得花更多的钱才能抱得“心仪之物”归。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>换言之，街头奢侈化，让奢侈品变得更贵了！

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>seline; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box;”>根据美国市场研究公司Gartner L2上个月发布的名为《奢侈品中国：街头服饰洞察》报告，在中国某购物应用程序上的最受欢迎Sneaker（运动鞋）排行榜中，排在前四位的分别是LV、香奈儿、爱马仕和迪奥。有趣的是，以Sneaker著称的Nike，排在第五位。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>对于年轻消费者而言，尤其是中国的年轻人，Sneaker是一种可展现个人魅力的身份象征。对于奢侈品牌来说，Sneaker是让中国年轻消费和打开钱袋子的“敲门砖”。根据《2018中国奢侈品数字消费市场洞察》，全球奢侈品销售额的1/3来自中国消费者，其中30岁以下的奢侈品消费者贡献了42%的消费，35岁以下则高达78%。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>这意味着，对于奢侈品牌来说，中国奢侈品消费市场是一块“肥肉”。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>在新闻发布会上，Gartner L2的高管指出，很长一段时间以来，奢侈品牌通过极具创新性的电商模式，以及在相关数字平台发起名人推广活动，斥巨资支持旗下面向年轻人的产品（比如说Sneaker、StreetWear及相关配饰）研发。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>随着上一代奢侈品消费者的淡出，奢侈品牌需要找到新的消费人群，并把目光投向蕴含巨大潜力的StreetWear市场。事实证明，这些品牌的选择是明智的。StreetWear之所以能获得年轻人的喜爱，并非因其外观多么吸引人，而是此类服饰具有排他性，能让穿戴它的人变得与众不同。

<h3 style="margin: 40px 0px 14px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 10px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 23px; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; position: relative; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify;”>物以稀为贵

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>seline; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box;”>为了能俘获中国年轻消费者的放心，曾经不可一世的奢侈品牌也借鉴了StreetWear文化的定价和分销策略：“限量销售”模式，又称“Drop”模式，或“Drop式”上新。所谓“Drop”模式，顾名思义，指的是在很短的时间内推出数量有限的商品，追求的是稀缺性。俗话说，物以稀为贵，因为是限量版，所以售价高。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>业内人士指出，StreetWear品牌和奢侈品牌都采用了“Drop”模式，目的是催生一种购买的紧迫感。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>这种“即秀即买”战略深受国际大牌的喜爱，Burberry就是其中一个。7月，Burberry高管公开表示，该品牌未来的核心产品系列将延续“即秀即买”模式，同时将通过经常性、不定期的推出一些限量产品来保持对消费者的吸引力。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>在丰厚利润和强劲需求的驱使下，奢侈品牌不断推陈出新，以求能抢占市场先机。然而，就在他们千方百计讨好中国年轻消费者的同时，一群唯利润马首是瞻的不法商人开始推出假冒或高仿奢侈品。无论是在线上还是线下，LV一直都是全球被假冒最多的品牌。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>虽然价格高且一不留神就可能会买到假货，中国的奢侈品市场仍旧很火爆。根据麦肯锡公司发布的《中国奢侈品》报告，到2025年，中国消费者在全球奢侈品支出中将占据40%的高份额。随着年纪较轻的消费者开始逐渐成为奢饰品购买的主力军，各大奢侈品牌将不得不挖空心思博得他们的欢心。

<h3 style="margin: 40px 0px 14px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 10px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 23px; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; position: relative; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify;”>本土品牌越来越受宠

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>seline; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box;”>专家指出，能够迎合年轻一代的需求真的很重要，在中国很多奢侈品消费者的年纪很轻，他们强调个性，有自己对时尚的独特见解，不喜欢随大流，奢侈品牌要想让这些年轻人留步，需得花一番心思。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>不过，大刀阔斧涉足StreetWear的奢侈品牌，现在无疑已经成了嘻哈、摇滚巨星和时尚达人的最爱。这些品牌亮出所谓的“奢侈StreetWear”，用昂贵面料、细致精工和大师级的视觉设计为T恤、牛皮夹克、卫衣、运动鞋等等流行文化中深受一代又一代青年男女热爱的平民服装换上了从未有过的奢华血肉，借着明星和时尚博客的高人气和曝光率，让名牌时装终于成为全民的向往。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>虽然越来越受欢迎，但是仍需面对严峻挑战。除了同行之间激烈的竞争之外，或许更令国际奢侈品牌烦恼的是，越来越多的中国年轻奢侈品消费者开始逐渐向本土品牌敞开怀抱。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>和很多人一样，营销机构Ogilvy战略副总裁安妮-侯，已经注意到中国消费者态度的转变。她说，在中国，年轻消费者用奢侈品来表达自我以及塑造个人形象，而且他们开始越来越多地接纳本土品牌。根据这位高管的观察，在中国年轻人的眼中，国内品牌不再比全球品牌低劣。

<p style="margin: 0px 0px 26px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 16px; line-height: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; font-family: “PingFang SC”, “Lantinghei SC”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, “Microsoft YaHei”, 微软雅黑, STHeitiSC-Light, simsun, 宋体, “WenQuanYi Zen Hei”, “WenQuanYi Micro Hei”, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; word-break: break-word; box-sizing: border-box; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(38, 38, 38); text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px;”>之所以会出现这种转变，一个重要原因在于过去十年里中国经济的快速增长助燃了本国年轻人的民族自豪感。在《2019年奢侈品报告》中，Ogilvy指出，“在中国经济以两位数的速度增长，以及该国的全球影响力和声誉呈现上行轨迹的大背景下，‘90后’长大成人。他们越来越为自己身为中国人而感到自豪。对于他们中的很多人来说，本国的一些奢侈品牌和外国奢侈品牌一样好，甚至要比外国品。